Black Lily These stunning, showy flowers are a dark purple-red and look fantastic in bouquets. Black lilies  could be grown outdoors, too, and could make a great focal point in your garden.

Name: Black Lily  Seeds "Australia"  Decor Home Garden Easy Plant   Quantity: 20 seeds/pack Package: 1 PP Simple Packaging  Applications: garden, pot,  etc.

Here are the ideal conditions for Black Lily flower:

• Sowing Temperature: 20 - 26 Celcius
• Growing Temperature: 18 - 39 Celcius
  Days to Maturity: 60 - 90 Days

Lily 'Black Charm'

Lilium, Asiatic Lily

Hardy Bulb Ideal For:patio, exotic garden, cut flower gardenFlowering Period:June, JulyPosition:sun or semi shadeHardiness:Hardy

• Rare black lily

Black flowers always generate interest and fascination amongst collectors, as well as amateur growers. One of the darkest lilies available, each black-red petal boasts a satin shimmer, forming large, trumpet-shaped blooms. The majestic Asiatic lily is unsurpassable for its bold colour and elegantly formed flowers set atop tall stems with narrow, glossy green foliage. Asiatic lily flowers are also superb for cutting; lasting for up to two weeks in your home. Perfect for patio containers and borders, grow Lily 'Black Charm' alone for a dramatic effect or mix with brightly coloured flowers for a dazzling display

GROWING LILIES FROM SEED

(adapted from ‘Let’s Grow Lilies’, The N.A. Lily Society.)

You probably think that lilies, because they are so big and beautiful, will take years and years to grow from seed but they don’t. Many will bloom in only eighteen  months . . . if the proper procedure is used!

EPIGEAL OR "QUICK-TYPE" SEED

( epigeal  means on the surface  of the ground)

It is best for beginners to start with the epigeal  or "quick-type" seeds. Lily types such as Trumpets, Aurelians, Asiatics, and pumilum  are included.

They can  be planted directly in prepared ground or a coldframe, but much quicker results are possible with indoor culture.

Many kinds of containers may be used. One four to six inches deep is best. Most amateurs find empty coffee cans ideal. Holes for drainage are a must. . .  and an inch or so of pebbles or other rough material. If you have planted seeds indoors before, you will have your own pet planting medium. A light fluffy soil potting mix sold in stores…. vermiculite… all are good. Some gardeners use soil to almost fill the container, then add a thin layer of milled sphagnum for the seeds to lie on, and cover with more of the same material. Lily seeds are quite large and should be spaced about one-half to one inch apart. Shake the seed with a pinch of Captan(optional) and spread out with the tip of a label.

If sphagnum is used to cover, sprinkle with a fine spray, but the whole container should be thoroughly soaked by setting in a pan of water for several hours. Be sure to stick in a label before you forget it. After allowing excess water to drain away, cover the container with plastic or enclose in a polyethylene bag, and store in a warm place.

If good fresh seed is used, the seedlings should start to appear in about fourteen days . . . maybe sooner. Remove the plastic as soon as the first ‘‘hairpin’’ shoot shows and place in good light. Fluorescent lights work very well if your windowsills are crowded.

Water and light are all the seedlings will need for awhile. When most of the seed has sprouted, you may start feeding about every two weeks with dilute liquid fertilizer… organic fish emulsion is good.

These first grass-like leaves are called cotyledons.  The true leaves, which are broader, will appear in about four more weeks and in fairly rapid succession from then on.

HARDENING OFF

Seedlings grown indoors will need to adjust to the brighter light and cooler temperatures before planting out. A protected place, out of wind and full sun for a couple of weeks, should condition them for their new outdoor life.

PLANTING OUT

These are two schools of thought (at least!) on the best time and method for transplanting the seedlings. Some set them directly into a raised nursery bed of carefully prepared soil, spacing the seedlings individually about six inches apart. Watered in with a ‘‘starter solution’’ and shaded for a few days, the little babies will grow merrily on as if nothing had happened. If immediate planting space is at a premium, the entire contents of the container may be swiftly slipped out and into a bed without disturbing any of the plants.

The clump of seedlings may be gently teased apart and planted in hunks.

Any of these operations may be carried out in the spring as soon as the weather is warm. For those who hesitate to handle such young seedlings and fear a possible set-back if the roots are disturbed, the containers may be plunged in the cold frame until fall. Unless the little bulbs are spaced out to begin with, it  will be necessary to do this in the fall to insure enough space for optimum development.

OUTDOOR BEDS

Seed can also be planted directly into carefully prepared outdoor beds in early spring. Cover seed with one inch of soil and a very light mulch of barkdust or peat, and water well throughout the growing season.

HYPOGEAL OR "SLOW-TYPE" SEED

( hypogeal  means under  the ground)

Not all lilies grow as rapidly as Trumpets, Aurelians, Asiatics, pumilum,  and all the other ‘‘quick-type" lilies. It is not that the hypogeal  or "slow-type" seeds are much more difficult, but you do  need patience!

Here are directions for hurrying them along as much as possible.

Some species which fall into the "slow" category are L. martagon, L.auratum, L. superbum, L. tsingtauense  and L. brownii

INCUBATION PERIOD

These seeds have a two-stage germination process. First is the warm period: Disinfect the seed with Captan(optional), mix with a generous handful of damp peat moss, milled sphagnum or vermiculite, enclose in a polyethylene bag and fasten with a label. Store this in a warm place for approximately three months. Late May or early June planting insures the most uniform germination. By peeking occasionally you can see little bulblets forming after the second month or so.

When most bulblets have swelled and made little roots, store the bag, still securely fastened, in the refrigerator for two-three months more. (They may remain refrigerated longer, over winter, for convenience.) After this cold period, the little bulblets may be tenderly planted and cared for as you do the "quick-type" seeds. This first true leaf will show in a week or two. . .  take good care of it! It may be the only one produced for a whole year. These seedlings are best pampered in a shaded cold frame for a year or two. Yes, it may be three or four years before you reap your reward on these! But the "slow-type" lilies are some of our most breathtakingly beautiful and desirable . . . the radiant rosy speciosum  and auratum  hybrids . . . petal-pink L. japonicum  and rubellum.  Ummmmm. . . you grow one of these from seed and your heart will really flutter with pride!

Many growers, both commercial and amateur, are working with these lilies, and there are many experiments and investigations going on to devise ways of shortening the pre-bloom growing time.

Raising lilies gets easier every year!

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• Condition: Neuf
• Material: Natural
• Type: Seeds
• Brand: non
• Country/Region of Manufacture: Australia

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